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Preparing for Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago

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Walking Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago

I’m finally going to take another long distant walking trip this fall. This time, I’m going to be walking Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago in southern France. It’s been something I’ve wanted to do for quite some time, but just haven’t been able to start. Now, after years of visualizing, I’m going with 2 female friends of mine for a 3 week French adventure. We’ll spend some time before and after the walk eating our hearts out in France and San Sebastian Spain.

 

Jaime testing out new backpack for Le Puy Route of the Camino de Santiago.

My new backpack for walking Le Puy Route of the Camino de Santiago

 

Le Puy route

Our plans are to walk a self-guided 10-11 day trip in France starting in Lectoure and ending in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This section of the Camino is referred to as part of the Le Puy Route or the Way of St. James. Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage that follows trails through rural south west France and along the Grand Randonnée 65.

My Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago

We will be stoping at the end of each day in a different village or town where we will have basic accommodations and plenty of food and water. Our stops my change, but my plan at the moment is the following:

Schedule for walking Le Puy Route of the Camino de Santiago

DAY 1  Lectoure to La Romieu 19.8 km

DAY 2  La Romieu to Larressingle 19.1 km

DAY 3  Larressingle to Eauze 28.8 km

DAY 4  Eauze to Nogaro 20 km     

DAY 5  Nogaro to Aire-sur-l’Adour 27.5 km

DAY 6  Aire-sur-l’Adour to Maslacq 54km REST DAY /BUS   

DAY 7  Maslacq to Navarrenx 23 km

DAY 8  Navarrenx to Aroue 20.1. km

DAY 9  Aroue to Ostabat 24.9 km

DAY 10  Ostabat to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 22.7 km

 

Training

To prepare for this kind of walk, I’ve needed to up my game in exercise and in walking. Getting my body ready for these long distances means walking long distances whenever I can. Fortunately, here in Mexico there are plenty of beautiful long distant rural walks to take. Also, every Saturday a group hike takes place in a different location in the area with anywhere from 5 to 20 hikers. It takes about 2-3 hours and can give me a good 7-8 km walk at a time. The last two Saturdays, I went the extra kilometer and walked back to town from the starting point of the hike adding another 16 km to my day.

Poco a poco (little by little) is what we say here in Mexico.

A little about Money

Those of you who know me, know that I don’t buy much. I don’t spend money often (besides on plane tickets – and even then I get great deals) because, well, after 4 years of full time nomad travel I’ve got no where to put ‘stuff’. Occasionally, I buy some new clothes when things wear out, but not very often. We’ve simplified our lives so much that having more is not always a good thing in our case.

I have spent so much of my life believing that I could not afford the actual real-life that I’ve been living for the last 10 years. Of course, I’ve worked hard to save money and to simplify my lifestyle, but mostly I have adjusted how I feel about money and how it comes to me.

Years ago, I realized it was important to focus on what I wanted FIRST and THEN allow the money to find it’s way to me. I know this sounds silly to a lot of people, but it’s how it has worked for me for the last 25 years of my life. And it’s exactly what happened with this trip. Yes, I did set a budget aside for this adventure and in the end I’m confident that I will not regret my decision and the costs that will occur.

Getting prepared to walk Le Puy route of the Camino de Santiago took a hefty investment in new gear and equipment. I hadn’t updated my hiking gear and clothes in almost 20 years. And even back then, I didn’t want to spend much money so I bought lower quality items that have long since worn out. This time around, and since I am now more emotionally and physically invested in long distance walking, I am buying what suits my needs first and not worrying ‘too’ much about the costs. I’m hoping there will be plenty more of these walks in my future.

 

Purchases so far

Here’s the first of a few things I’ve bought myself after 20 years of basically no backpacking upgrades. I will share more later.

Hiking Boots

My preparations began with buying new hiking boots last summer – giving myself plenty of time to break them in. I choose Keen Targhee II Mid waterproof boots after having another hiking companion recommend them. They are amazing! These boots are everything I was looking for in a hiking shoe. Extremely lightweight, breathable, waterproof, and comfortable. I think they have a great grip for tough terrain and were very easy to break in. I’ve been walking in them regularly for the last 6 months including long 20km days through rural Mexico and they are my favorite hiking boot I’ve ever owned.

 

 

 

Backpack

I did a TON of research on this one. I read a hundred blogs and watched every video I could on finding the perfect backpack for my specific needs. Finally, I found the perfect pack for me. I picked the Osprey Sirrus 36 liters Backpack. It is just the right size for long distance walks where camping is not part of the plan. I won’t have to carry camping gear, tent, camp stove, water, water filters, pots, food, etc. Instead, we will be staying each night in a dorm, convent, hotel, guest house, or something similar. There is plenty of water and food along the way and no need to carry more than a few light snacks.

I also bought an Osprey 1.5 liter water bladder that conveniently fits inside the pack.

This backpack has a ton of nice features. First of all, it’s VERY lightweight (as you can see, this is an ongoing theme with everything since I’m carrying this stuff on my back for many long days). It has a cooling system so your back does not get too hot. It has 2 hip pockets to carry your phone or snacks. Even though it is top loading, it also has a side zipper pocket for easy access inside the main compartment. It has all the features I was looking for in a pack. And it’s avocado green!!!

Osprey Sirrus 36 liter backpack

 

Trekking Poles

I also invested in some trekking poles since it’s something I can use anywhere on a long distant walk. Not only do they help prevent you from falling and losing balance, but they keep your hands from fatigue when they are normally at your sides.

I choose Trekology Trek -Z collapsible poles so that I can easy fold them down into my carry-on backpack. Once I did research on the cork handles, I decided that would work best for me because they will help absorb palm sweating. Also, super lightweight and compact.

 

 

 

I’m slowly getting more and more prepared and more and more excited!

Buen Camino!

Tay Ho, Hanoi Vietnam – A Slow Travelers First Impression

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fish lady

Fish vendor at street market.

There is so much to look at in Hanoi. Maybe it’s the fact that I’ve been suffering from jet lag after having traveled across 8 different time zones, but there is no doubt that I’ve had a certain amount of sensory overload that happened in less then 24 hours after arriving to Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. In a very broad sense, things here seem very familiar yet, of course, so different in many, many ways.

street-kitchen

Hanoi street kitchen.

For the next 2 months we now live in the Tay Ho area which is situated on a lake appropriately named, Ho Tay, which is just north of the bustling city center of Hanoi. This neighborhood is less crowded and quieter than the city center. It also appears to be filled with expatriates and foreigners. Most of these foreigners are from all over the world with a high concentration of people from the UK, Australia, and other Asian and European countries. We actually heard a group of people speaking Mexican Spanish yesterday while we had lunch and it made us smile. =) Here is a listing for some of the hotels to stay in the Tay Ho neighborhood.

sidewalk

Sidewalk obsticals

Our housekeeper set us up for our stay here with an almost-new scooter rental that has plenty of storage under the seat for all our groceries and supplies. We started with exploring our neighborhood – first on foot and then on the scooter. Though it was a challenge at first, it was still quite manageable. Scooters rule the roads here, and driving a car seems absolutely ridiculous and very difficult to maneuver in traffic. Walking can be equally a challenge since the sidewalks stop and start abruptly with over grown grass, rocks, and other not-so-friendly obstacles, leaving you vulnerable to traffic in the roads.

adam shopping

Adam buys some pickled veggies from street vendor.

 

The Tay Ho area is filled with restaurants, bars, coffee houses, specialty shops, and just about anything else you may need. International products can be found in just about every bodega on a street corner. Our first Saturday was spent collecting organic food at a weekly market and organic store very near to our house.

CROSSING THE STREETS IN HANOI

trafficThere’s a strange – but understood rule here with crossing a street in Vietnam. When it appears to be no way to cross, somehow, people find a way. Nobody will stop for you, yet everyone will let you cross. It’s almost an energetic game of “Frogger”. There are people texting on their scooters who never look up, yet they avoid hitting and being hit by others. It’s when you don’t “let go” of your notions of what you think it should be, and allow the system to just work, is when there could be trouble. And in most cases, you probably won’t die. =)

PHO FOR EVERYONE

pho #1

Best Pho so far pho-sure!

We rode our scooter to the best Pho (pronounced fah) we’ve had so far, and I hope we can find it again. It was a perfect combo of broth, veggies, and spicy/sour flavors. I do, however, find it difficult to understand that when it’s 32° celsius (89° fahrenheit – but feels like 106°) with a humidity level of 90%, that anyone in their right mind would want to sit outside in the sun and eat hot soup. But everyone here does it and loves it. Surprisingly, it was kind of cooling in the end.

adam eating pho

 

yogurt coffee2

ca phe sua chua

MY NEW HABIT

Then it happened. We found our second favorite thing in Vietnam. Yogurt coffee (ca phe sua chua).

OMG. This is stuff dreams are made of. The combination of lightly sweetened yogurt and rich chocolate-y coffee – with the light bitterness of the coffee bouncing off the creamy sweetness of the yogurt – is just heavenly. I am now planning on setting aside 15,000 dong ($.70US) each day for one of these lovely drinks. Normally I only drink coffee in the morning, but when in Vietnam, coffee drinking is an integral part of the entire day and I will be happy to make it an afternoon delight also. I’m sure I will talk more about this in later posts. Thank you Vietnam Gods.

yogurt coffee

ca phe sua chua

To be continued….

 

 

Slow Travel

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SLOW TRAVEL

Imagine living for a few weeks or even months in an Italian village, buying fresh vegetables from the farmer’s market every week, sipping coffee on your terrace, and taking easy going day trips to neighboring villages and chateaus when you feel like it. That’s what slow travel is all about.  Where the emphasis is less on constant sightseeing and more about taking in the surroundings at a relaxed pace.

So many people I know return from a vacation feeling exhausted and in need of another ‘vacation’ just to relax for a few days. It seems like so many of us already live hectic and busy lives, so how is activity-intense vacations suppose to help us unwind? Spending 1-2 weeks of intense tourist attractions and sightseeing does not make for a relaxing holiday. At least not for us. 

Fortunately,  Adam and I have been doing this kind of travel – that’s now part of a larger movement – that has emerged over the last 10 years as a solution to tourist burnout. It’s called “slow travel”.

map with pinsThe two of us started doing slow travel after our very first trip to Europe – where we were doing the typical American vacation thing of trying to pack in as much as we could in a short period of time. It only took us 2 weeks before we were exhausted and couldn’t bare to go on and see one more church.

Then while in Spain, we met an American man on a train who told us he was on a mission to see 8 different countries in only 2 weeks. Hearing his agenda exhausted us both – and we knew then that this would never be the way we would want to travel. Spending more time on a bus, train, or plane, then in the actual places we were trying to “see” was never going to be us. It was at that moment we decided that we need to actually spend more time in less places. 

 

 

 

So, what is SLOW TRAVEL?

Slow travel is like slow food. It’s about taking your time to create something more meaningful and healthy. By traveling slow, you’re able to appreciate and respect local flavors, traditions, art, culture, local farming, and environments – and end up spending a lot less money then moving around so much. It’s about getting to know one small area really well instead of getting to know very little about a whole lot of places.atlas with wine

It’s a mindset.

Slow travel is not always about renting a small house or room for a week or more – though this is a great idea and I highly recommend it. It can also be about taking the less traveled road. Going to places no one else has heard of. Getting on a bus just to see where it may go. It could also be about taking a train across land instead of flying. Or riding a bike from pub to pub. The idea is, no matter what floats your boat, is to slow down, take in your surroundings, smell the roses, and be here now.

 

Why I love Slow Travel

jaime-trudi-and-oritI feel a much stronger connection to the places I’m visiting – and of course the people too. We’re not trying to check things off a bucket list, or see every site in a guidebook. We prefer getting to know our neighbors, shopping in the local markets where people get to know who we are. I love finding favorite places to eat or have coffee, or a park where I can go sit under a tree and read a book.

I also believe slow travel is cheeper on many levels. Transportation costs will go down significantly when you are not moving around so much. Long term lodging is always less expensive. And now with Airbnb, there are lot’s of options for weekly and monthly rentals just about everywhere in the world.  Also, when you take your time, you will be allowed to cook and learn from the locals how to use local ingredients therefore saving money from so much time eating out.

Another thing that I love about slow travel is overcoming language barriers, differences in customs and other stumbling blocks to make connections with the people I meet along the way. This is the most fulfilling part for us both.

Once you slow down, it’s hard to go back. Few places in the world move as fast as American’s do, so when you get on the same pace as those around you, it’s easier to escape the stress of a fast paced life.

How do you slow travel?

to be continued….